Yes, chainline is crucial but I dimpled the chainstay to avoid any rubbing. Chain tension is very important too. Some opt for a spring tensioner which is something I would consider for the next one. There’s a good article about retro-directs in Boneshaker 42-500.

Good luck!
Brian

I am very interested in this retro drive idea for a frame I have lying around.

I have noticed in some other peoples adventures with ‘homebrewing’ their own retrodrive, a common problem being chain rub & unwanted derailment. How has yours fared in this regard? Does it happen if you pedal super hard? Any tips for prevention? Thanks!!

How well did the static idler pulley work? Most rd’s seem to use sprung chain tensioners, but they don’t seem necessary.

-Ben

That’s a beauty…I know this is an old page, but I hope you still check it!

Talk about obsessed, I rode one a while ago…and they are just the coolest thing. I usually ride a 36″ uni, but looking for something a little easier to commute to work with and still want to be, you know…different lol. Main reason, it’s difficult to make left turns on the uni in traffic (have to dismount at red lights…between cars, then remount). Anyway, I’m working with someone to build a retro, and I’m looking for any pointers anyone might have (parts, gearing, crank length, good conversions, etc…).

If anyone can help, please e-mail me at DNut10@yahoo.com

If you are reading this…it’s because you’re awesome, Go Retro!

I discovered retro-direct gearing just the other day on the web and am now awaiting delivery of a few parts to implement my own. I had a bottom-bracket cup, and with a lot of singlespeed freewheels lying around found that they do indeed screw right together.

A KORE chain-tensioner looks to be the simplest way to hang the chain-turning pulley, like this guy: http://preview.tinyurl.com/yhowg4e

That’s pretty much the specialized parts needed to roll your own… my last question is the directions to assign to the gears, but like Flower, and the Zoobomb guy from the link above, and another blogger, I believe I’ll make the low gear the forward-pedalling one, for starting out, hill-climbing, and slow cycling. The backward gear for cruising may also put less stress on the left pedal (I’ll use Loctite, too).

Seriously? Can you coast too? It would seem like… maybe? My mind is completely blown about this.
Since the “backwards” gear is lower, do you pedal backwards to go uphill?